"You can find your way across this country using burger joints the way a navigator uses stars." Charles Kuralt

Monday, July 14, 2008

Surf Taco

Just about anyone who has spent time on the West Coast eating Mexican style food bemoans the lack of anything that even comes close here in the Northeastern U.S. The prevailing trend out west is fresh, big and cheap. Actually it’s FRESH!, FRESH!, FRESH!, big and cheap. It’s the FRESH!, FRESH!, FRESH! that is what is usually lacking around here, although big and cheap isn’t exactly a common combination either.
Lately there has been a small but steady influx of small taquerías and burrito joints both corporate and privately owned. They tend to run the gamut from bright and shiny institutional looking places to little, dark, hole-in-the-wall cantinas to simple take-out windows. Sometimes though, you run into something that is entirely different. I had the good fortune of doing just that the first time I visited Surf Taco in Seaside Park, NJ.
Housed in an unassuming storefront along the main drag, Surf Taco is a local success story. The first one opened up the coast in Point Pleasant in 2001. They have since grown to at least eight locations. As soon as I opened the door to step inside it became apparent why they have grown so quickly. I was somewhat surprised by the fact that I could barely get inside. The line from the counter was backed up all the way to the door and every table was full. With some small trepidation I grabbed a takeout menu to get a head start on ordering and settled in for what I anticipated to be a long wait.
Inside, Surf Taco is decorated just the way you hope it would be. The surf theme is heavy but laid back and totally unforced.You almost expect to see Jeff Spicoli and crew tumble out of his van and pile into a back table. The menu is big, basic and has a tropical influence. The good people of Surf taco call it “Coastal Cuisine”, a combination of fresh food and surf culture. Tacos go for about $4, and burritos are about $7. They offer combinations of flavors that I haven’t encountered anywhere else like the Buffalo Chicken Taco and the Garlic Shrimp Burrito. For $15 they serve a burrito called the Tsunami. They say that if you can eat this oversized burrito in 15 minutes or less they will add your picture to the Tsunami Wall of Fame. Maybe next time.
The line was moving much quicker than anticipated, and within five minutes I was at the counter. Whoever was behind the register knew what they were doing. As it turns out, the person at the register looked like your typical vacant teenage, blonde beach bunny. Yet another lesson in not adhering to stereotypes. This girl was on the ball. And if this was any indication of what I could expect from every aspect of Surf Taco then I was sure not to be disappointed.
I ordered the Teriyaki Chicken Taco (Chicken marinated in teriyaki sauce, topped with jack & cheddar cheeses, lettuce, pineapple & Pico de Gallo salsa: $3.65) and the Chimichanga (Shredded chicken, jack & cheddar cheeses, peppers & onions wrapped in a 12” flour tortilla fried to a golden brown & served a side of sour cream, guacamole & Pico de Gallo: $8.00). Fountain drinks are self serve, so I got my cup along with my order number on a stick that I need for later food delivery. The soda fountain is located next to the fresh salsa bar. After loading up and standing around for a minute, a table opened up across the room.
This would be a good time to point out that the line for the counter had not gotten any smaller since I had been there. I already mentioned how fast it was moving. If this was typical business, Surf Taco is a goldmine. I settled in at my table and then got up again and made a trip for napkins and other stuff I couldn’t carry the first time. By time I got myself together sufficiently enough to start thinking about how hungry I was, a couple of guys came out of the kitchen bearing plates of food and looking for their matching number. There was no way that this was my order. Not yet, anyway. Not unless they have Edgar Cayce out back working the grill. Give Edgar my regards. These guys headed right for my table and unloaded their savory burden upon its surface.
The first thing I noticed were the huge chunks of pineapple stuffed into my taco. A bite brought the combined flavors of pineapple, teriyaki and fresh Pico de Gallo. I have to say that it’s probably the best taco that I’ve ever had. I could easily have eaten a few more, but I wanted to go for some variety.Next up was the Chimichanga.I spread the side order of sour cream, guacamole & Pico de Gallo across the light and crispy fried tortilla.I then surgically split it from end to end exposing the chicken and cheese concealed within its steamy interior.Again, this officially is the best chimi that I’ve ever had. I only wish it was bigger because I just didn’t want to stop eating it. Guess I’ll be going back. Oh, and when I left, the line was still almost out the door.Surf Taco
212 SE Central Avenue
Seaside Park, NJ
732.830.2111

Monday, June 23, 2008

Roney's Hamburgers

If you’re driving along Rt. 130 north on the edge of Collingswood near the Cooper River be sure not to miss one of the few remaining vestiges of New Jersey hamburger history: Roney’s Hamburgers. A must stop for any true roadfoodie, the gleaming orange and blue structure has had a few updates since its former life as a White Tower restaurant. As a matter of fact, if you look real close at the sign mounted above the building you can still make out the words “White Tower” faded into the wood beneath the more freshly painted “Roney’s Restaurant”.
Inside the compact structure is a lunch counter with eight stools plus a few more up front. There’s a small able in the corner. Upon seeing the small grill and fryer tucked away at the end of the counter you are left to wonder how they can keep up during the rush.
The scant seating does not act as a deterrent. I’ve seen quite a few people packed into this place. Occasionally, one has to wonder whether the place might be bigger on the inside than out.
Technically always open, Roney’s is probably the safest place to eat in the whole area. Turns out that this old hamburger stand is a favorite meeting place for police officers from several municipalities. I don’t think that I’ve ever been there without an armed escort. I wouldn’t feel quite as safe at the big Dunkin Donuts across the street. The cops around here prefer hamburgers.
It was late and I hadn’t had any dinner, so I was pretty darn hungry. Roney’s menu is compact but well rounded and more than affordable. You can get breakfast all day and night along with just about anything else that can be grilled, fried or toasted. This time around I settled on the Double Big “R” Cheeseburger with Bacon. Roney’s serves two sizes of burger, a four-ounce and a six-ounce. So, this one was 2 six-ounce burgers with cheese, grilled onions and pickles.
On the overnight shift at Roney’s your server is also your chef. So having taken my order, the waitress headed over to the grill to put it all together. In no time at all I was faced with a hot and ever so wonderfully greasy Double Big “R” Cheeseburger with Bacon. With some care it can be lifted in both hands and eaten with a minimum of sloppiness. Rush into it all helter skelter and you could end up with a mess on your hands.
It was everything I hoped it would be. All of the ingredients blended together into an experience in burgery goodness. For about another buck and a half you can platter it with lettuce, tomato and fries. Next time around I’m planning to dive into the breakfast menu.
Although the menu will accommodate most people, please be aware that it is all cooked on the same grill. So if you don’t eat meat, your eggs, grilled cheese and whatnot will be cooked where the meat was. Sorry, but that’s the price you pay for such a compact set-up. So, be sure to stop by Roney’s for a for a bite to eat and while you’re at it check out the classic surroundings. They really don’t make them like this anymore.

(photo courtesy of RoadsideArchitecture.com)